How To Tarpaper A Roof

84

By Ghost32

Simple But Necessary

If you've never seen a tarpaper shack, you haven't lived. Where I grew up in rural Montana, there were a number of them. Tarpaper--not just for the roof!

The roof is, however, where most homes apply the product known as roofing felt. It comes in two "weights", namely "fifteen pound" and "thirty pound". Simply described, this ubiquitous building material is generally manufactured in rolls that are a bit more than 39 inches wide and something like 66 feet long--producing what professionals call a "square", or 100 square feet, of coverage. It's made of paper felt which is thoroughly impregnated with asphalt tar, the result being both waterproof and windproof but pretty easy to tear if you're not careful putting it down.

Some online writers actually claim the lighter, fifteen pound version is the best way to go if you're not a real dummy who's getting suckered by your contractor. Well, paint me green and call me a dummy. I've actually worked with both and hope to never again lay a hand on the lighter product. Both types may very well accomplish the task of placing a moisture barrier between sheathing boards and roofing panels or shingles, but I hate that fifteen pound junk! I mean detest it! Here's why:

1. It's a little cheaper than 30 pound felt, but only a little--even the heavier version was a bit under $20 a roll at Home Depot, and that's a February 2010 price.

2. The heavier type rolls out on the roof like a rocket sled on rails. Well, not fast like that, but straight. Today, I'd line up a roll the way I wanted it, staple one end, roll the thing out all the way across the roof--and end up with a perfectly straight 36 foot line (the length of the roof). When I last used fifteen pound paper, it wasn't quite as easy to keep straight.

3. The wind catches the lighter version more easily, flips it up, starts things ripping and tearing like crazy.

4. While I did tear the heavier felt a couple of times today, it was only when I was being really stupid (or at least careless). I just like to work with it so-o-o much better!

5. With the heavier material, you feel like you're actually building something. With the other, it always felt like I was trying to hide a really lousy term paper between the shingles and the sheathing.

Okay. That's settled.

Today was Monday. The Home Depot delivery truck arrived around 1: 30 p.m., offloaded roofing panels and tarpaper (plus a pallet of OSB strand board), and headed back out. I was more than ready to get to work. The roof sheathing had been finished on Saturday night, and rain was forecast.

Sheathing done; where's that tarpaper?
See all 11 photos
Sheathing done; where's that tarpaper?
A better angle for showing the Huachuca Mountains in the background.
A better angle for showing the Huachuca Mountains in the background.
A view of the northwest corner.
A view of the northwest corner.
Yup, built by a guy who thinks in "fortress" terms (bullet-stopping walls and defensible windows).
Yup, built by a guy who thinks in "fortress" terms (bullet-stopping walls and defensible windows).
As seen from the incoming driveway.
As seen from the incoming driveway.

An Apology

To my regular readers: Sorry about not taking any photos of the tarpaper application as it was happening. Will get some of the finished roof, but time was of the essence and the camera got left in the camp trailer where Pam and Justin were vacuuming out nine months worth of cat hair from the carpet and scrubbing a monsoon's worth of mud from the kitchen floor. Figured it was worth my life to go in there....

Fortunately, the tarpapering process is about as straightforward as any building phase can be. The steps:

1. Chunk a heavy roll of material up onto the roof. Good for the biceps and shoulders. Bad for the ego when twenty-five year old Justin can sling a roll two feet farther up the slope than I can.

2. "Forget" to tell Justin that fact. He was busy elsewhere whenever I had to boost my own roll of tarpaper, and it somehow slipped my mind to tell him he'd won the Homebuilders' Olympic Shotput event.

3. Start at one bottom edge with an inch or two of paper extending out over the board edges. These rolls have cool "tracking lines" that help you keep the roll straight as you roll it out, but before you do that, staple one end down at the edge of the roof. You don't want the "free" end following you across the roof, curling back up into a roll as it goes (comes?).

4. Except for the final row at the roof peak, only a few staples are needed for the long upper edge--because you'll be overlapping that with the next row. When you staple the dickens out of that lower edge, it'll also catch the upper edge of the row below it. I overlapped about 5 inches, a bit more than the so-called professionals insist upon--but whadda they know?

5. Use lots of staples along the lower edges and at the ends, especially if there may be a delay of a few days before the roof will be entirely covered with the final roofing (either shingles or panels). A horrible gust in the 75 mph range will rip things loose no matter what, but abundant stapling will prevent damage if the weather is more reasonable.

6. Where a roll runs out in the middle of the roof and another must be added to the picture, I like to (a) try to have the direction going so that the most likely wind-with-rain will slide over things shingle-style (our predominant winds are westerly, though in monsoon season we do get rain/wind from the east as well), and (b) use a huge overlap--about 18 inches. Sure, that's overkill, but tarpaper is not expensive and water damage can ruin your whole day.

Miscellaneous

Unless you are to roofing as Michael Jordan is to the game of basketball, you're going to have a ripple or a bubble here and there in your tarpaper. If the roof sheathing is perfectly level all the way across, then maybe not...but this is the real world, folks. I've got water-fluffed boards here and there, a tiny bit of sag between trusses to add to that, etc. Net result: Ripples. Where this happens, I just try to staple on both sides of the ripple, than add more staples until they "meet in the middle". You may get a tiny crease in your paper, but no big--the final panels (or shingles) will flatten everything out sufficiently. For now, you mainly want to avoid giving the wind a toehold, sort of like keeping the camel's nose out of your tent.

It also helps to buy at least one extra roll of tarpaper, i.e. one more than your calculations indicate you're likely to need. I did that on "general principles" (one of my late father's overused sayings). It turned out I didn't need it after all, but only missed needing it by two feet of material. Without that sense of security from knowing it was there, who knows how many mistakes I might've made? Especially when the last three rows were covered after dark, me up there rolling out roofing felt and stapling on top of a pitch black roof on a moonless night...yes, of course I had a flashlight. In my mouth.

No wisecracks, please. Well, unless they're really original.

Two hours after sunset, I was done. Supper was ready. Justin warned me to "get it while it was hot"...so of course I spilled the entire box of 5,000 staples all over the place while gathering up tools.

All in all, a perfect day.

Note:  Photos of the tarpaper-covered roof will be added sometime within the next 48 hours--gotta wait for daylight to get the right shots.  Hopefully, those photos  will show no wind damage!

It came THIS close to needing that last, spare roll.
It came THIS close to needing that last, spare roll.
Looking much better than bare wood.
Looking much better than bare wood.
From the other side.
From the other side.
Close-up showing stapling.
Close-up showing stapling.
Extra staples containing a small wrinkle until the roofing panel can cover it over.
Extra staples containing a small wrinkle until the roofing panel can cover it over.
A neater bit of stapling.
A neater bit of stapling.

Comments

sylvia 2 years ago

you just can't help yourself...working in the dark.

so what happened to the full moon, ghost? did you have cloud cover? well, (boasting)i sat outside for hours after sunset and read a book by moonlight. (then i got up and tripped over a rebar cage, falling flat, my face 2" from the ground).

great going, ghost. you'll have this thing wrapped-up long before the end of the year :)

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 2 years ago

Good question about the moon, Sylvia. It wasn't helping, so there must have been cloud cover.

You know, if you wouldn't put your rebar in a cage, maybe it wouldn't get mad and trip you like that. :D

Yeah, we'll have it wrapped up before year-end...but the GOAL is to be living in it before JULY 1. We'll see....

sylvia 2 years ago

you're earned two :) :)

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 2 years ago

Thanks! Don't get a two-smiley that often! :D

locklevels profile image

locklevels 2 years ago

Good article. As a kid I worked as a roofer with my Dad. Maybe I will write an article on cutting down roof flashing.

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 2 years ago

Thanks, LockLevels. Getting an attaboy on an article from someone who knows the subject means a lot. And by all means, go for it on the roof flashing hub.

earnestshub profile image

earnestshub Level 2 Commenter 2 years ago

When I was a little tacker we lived in tarpaper huts for years. We would build them in the forest my dad was logging out of saplings covered in tarpaper. Dad would knock it up in a day, we would usually live on site for 3 months or so, them move and build another one. Is this the house you are building for yourself ghost? It looks pretty damn good. Luxury! :) :)

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 2 years ago

Love that term, "little tacker". Hadn't heard that one, but it fits.

My Dad did plenty of logging in his day, and I did a little myself later on, but I was never in any of the logging camps with him.

Yes, that's the house I'm building for wife & self, 3 cats, & 1 leopard gecko. Thanks for the compliment! I do believe you're right that it'll provide luxury when finished. Outside perimeter is 36' x 36'. Wife and I will each have 1/4 of the total floor space for a private bedroom with bathroom, then a 6' wide storage hallway just inside the back door with the remainder of THAT quarter becoming my office. The final quarter will be a combo kitchen and living room with a minimum 32" TV on one wall. (We just got DirecTV, watching it in the camp trailer for now, but the house is prewired for it already.)

Spent 10 hours on the Internet last night with at least 8 of those hours devoted to figuring out and placing an order for rubber flooring. Finally got it done as the sun was coming up, made it to bed at about a quarter to 7 a.m. The flooring "system" will consist of three layers, all "loose laid":

1. On the bare earth, a layer (or two) of heavy plastic as a moisture barrier.

2. On the plastic, a layer of strand boards, the type used to sheathe walls and also the roof on this house.

3. On the layer of boards, a layer of 3/8" interlocking rubber flooring tiles made from recycled rubber, each tile being 3' x 3' and designed for loose lay without any adhesive. Black, with 10% blue pattern.

And that's it. Nothing attached to anything, just lying there, and that may even help hold our tax bill down.

equealla profile image

equealla 22 months ago

I am green with envy about the location. What a beautiful site. Interesting about "tarpaper" as I do not konw it. Perhaps it is available in South Africa, but I have not seen it in use. Most homes here has tile and zink roofs. It is much cheaper than using wood as a solid base, as you did. At least this is what I perceive it to be.

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 22 months ago

It is a beautiful site. We definitely love it here.

"Tarpaper" is a general use name for roofing felt, if that helps any. In the U.S., it's very widely used, as is wood for a base...perhaps because timber (and therefore lumber) is still relatively plentiful here.

We do have tile roofs here. I'm not cerain about zinc. And I honestly have no idea what the relative cost might be. Zinc, I think, would be difficult to locate at the local building materials stores. And I didn't even consider tile, for two reasons:

1. I have considerable previous experience with wood but zero with tile.

2. We don't get high winds too often, but DO get them at least a few times every year. One such episode knocked two of the home's earthbag walls flat before the structure was well secured. And frankly, I just don't trust tiles not to get snagged by hurricane strength winds and hurled off into the great unknown.

The wooden sheathing that I did use is fastened to the underlying trusses with many, many long nails....:)

wildman 12 months ago

Can you use an adhesive along with the staples for the tar-paper to prevent water from backing up under the shingles and tar-paper caused by an ice damn?

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 12 months ago

You mean, lay down a mastic on the wood before adding the felt? (And there are no shingles on this roof, just full-length steel panels.)

I don't know how well that would work, though it seems like it might help a bit. Adding the roofing felt over an already-sticky surface would be awkward, though; that much is certain.

As for ice dams specifically, (a) we don't get those on the Mexican border since it almost never snows and sub-freezing temperatures (when we do get them) seldom last until noon, and (b) in more northerly climes, the best way to avoid damage from ice dams is to use a steeper pitch on the roof trusses. I used 2 in 12, which is a big no-no for steel paneling as stated by all manufacturers of such but NOT a problem where we live. In Montana, though, I'd have gone to at least 3 in 12.

Becky 11 months ago

As much as you work in the dark, you really need a miner's light. It is the kind on a headband. You slip it over your head like a hat and it is a flashlight. It will shine wherever you look and it is hands (and mouth)free. Leaving the mouth free for nails (every person I know has a mouth full of nails when they are constructing something).

Have you noticed the similarity of your roof line to the mountains in the background (reference the #2 photo)? Very nice. If the roof was slanted more, it wouldn't be similar.

Interesting and informative for those of us who need to learn how.

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 11 months ago

I'm familiar with miner's lights, having been an underground miner at one time in a phosphate mine in Montana. You're right about the mouthful of nails (or screws, whatever), but the lights we used in the mine had a cord running down your back to a battery pack that clipped onto your belt. It was rechargable, owned by the mining company, and when you were done with your shift, you plugged the thing back in for the next go-round. Very effective, but for a fairly "broke" civilian, not exactly a cheap fix to set up.

Yes, I HAVE noticed the similarity of the roof line to the mountains in the background--especially in that photo. Never commented on it till you did, though.

Becky 11 months ago

They also have some for the mini kel lights. The head frame is only about $5.00.

Ghost32 profile image

Ghost32 Hub Author 11 months ago

A number of the drivers on my last job used any variety of head-mounted lights. I just happened to be one (of quite a few) that preferred to Wal-Mart 98-cent flashlights powered by two AA cell alkaline batteries.

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